A charming and simple Damascene courtyard hotel, with all the regular trappings of a burbling fountain, stripey stones and ornate rooms. Travellers' feedback has been positive about the Aram, confirming rooms are cosy and warm in the winter and have 24-hour light, but finding the wifi weak and only intermittent plug electricity. Single rooms $70, doubles $85, extra bed $10 - but we hear they can be flexible about prices. Breakfast is extra. Find it near Azzem Palace, next to the famous Beit Sitti restaurant.