A ten-minute drive west of the old town, Umayyad Square is the high-decibel, high-traffic heart of modern Damascus, a large traffic circle with some of the country's most appalling driving, yet somehow it all flows. Standing tall to the southeast is the iconic Damascene Sword (seif), a towering monument of steel and stained glass that serves as the city's unofficial logo. Built to commemorate the International Fair in the 1950s, it is the focus of all street celebrations, demonstrations and revolutions and a prime spot for a bit of urban theatre, flanked by the sprawling Tishreen Park, the defence ministry, and the imposing Opera House. You're likely to pass it at some time during your visit, and it's not a problem to ask the driver to pull over for a few photos.