Crossing Ponte Vecchio, in Oltrarno, literally 'across the Arno', stands the imposing 15th century Palazzo Pitti. Behind its walls is a museum complex that comprises a real treasure trove of art, housing the Palatine Gallery and Pinacoteca with works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Artemisia Gentileschi and Tiziano, the Gallery of Modern Art, and the Museum of Costume and Fashion. Less spoken of than the Uffizi gallery, but run by the same association, Palazzo Pitti is a palace as fine as any and one to which we have happily been returning for years.