This new stone guesthouse in the tiny village of Iballa, 60km north of Fushë-Arrëz and also known as Vila L, may be the highest quality lodging option in the area. With modern en suite rooms that would't look out of place in Tirana, it's the restaurant next door that attracts the locals - the excellent traditional meals here include delicacies such as village chicken,  karragjak sausage, spiral phyllo pie, japrak stuffed grape leaves, veal meatballs, cured pork meat with beans, cassarole and walnut pie. Now that the road to Iballa has been resurfaced, it's easier than ever to reach.