The crossing below the castle is the traditional hub of Gjirokastra's commercial scene, quaintly called Qafa e Pazarit, the bazaar 'neck' or pass. Built in the 18th and 19th centuries in Ottoman style, the bazaar is very distinct in structure and architecture from the castle and residential areas surrounding it. Essentially it's an ancient open-air mall, with about 100 shops, storage rooms and crafts workshops that were optimised to handle the huge volume of products that flowed through Gjirokastra. Even today, it's not hard to imagine caravans of horses and donkeys hauling goods up from the Adriatic ports, to be traded here with crafts and products from the mountainous interior, with the mosque, a hamam bath and inns nearby catering to the traders' needs. Looking better than ever after extensive renovations, these delightful streets have come alive again with restaurants, bars and shops catering to Gjirokastra's locals and visitors.