At first glance, the island landscape gives the impression of a virgin wilderness made up of prickly Mediterranean shrubs, boulder-strewn slopes, and soaring cypresses. However, evidence of cultivation past and present are everywhere, with rows of vines and the silvery-green leaves of olive trees poking up among the maquis. Semi-collapsed piles of stones reveal how cultivable land was cleared of rock in centuries past, before being collected to form spoil-heaps and dry-stone walls that divided up the fertile land. This is Hvar, Croatia’s sunniest island and the poster child for everything that makes Dalmatia so spectacular.
Hvar is all about the land, but its towns and villages more than hold up their end of the bargain. Hvar Town itself is all Venetian architecture, cobbled streets, and picturesque romance, while Stari Grad traces its roots back to the Greeks in the 4th century BC and boasts a medieval centre of tightly knit alleys packed with studios, restaurants, and characterful shops. Jelsa is a charming port turned tourist resort, one that shimmers around a perfect boat-filled bay, with spectacular beaches nearby.
Actually, there are spectacular beaches everywhere you look; you just need to pack the sunscreen and decide where to stop. In amongst it all are villages too picturesque for words, hamlets where time has seemingly stood still, although who can blame time for putting its feet up in places like these? Hvar is as idyllic as it gets, offering an evocative taste of Renaissance life with the views to boot. Throw in gorgeous wine, vibrant festivals, winsome churches, and absolute serenity, and you’ve got yourself something special. Can it get any better? Pour yourself a glass of award-winning wine, take in the splendour, and judge for yourself.
Chapels
The towns and villages of Hvar tend to grow around the gorgeous churches, but it might just be the chapels of the island that best showcase the spiritual depth of the island. Embark on a walk in the wilderness, and you will invariably happen upon a small chapel, one that seemingly rises out of nowhere but was constructed to provide sacral peace for people in isolated areas. You’ll find these chapels on rocks by the waters and in vantage points above villages, deep in the grass and on the side of all roads.
