Jama Michalika

Not so much a café as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment that Młoda Polska - Poland's Art Nouveau movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed a bit since then and still features the original gorgeous fin-de-siecle interior by Karol Frycz - which includes period furnishings and some lovely examples of stained glass, loads of original artwork by Kraków's leading artists from the time (some of it painted directly on the walls), plus an anachronous cloakroom and smoking section. There's also a full menu of Polish food and regular folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is still essential.