Swish country-house bistro, Usadba, has established a golden reputation for itself out in the suburbs and takes exclusivity to a new level, even by Kaliningrad standards. Supping tranquility under a gazebo in their immaculate garden, our aproned waiter was suitably sullen and our neighbours had enough whisky and cigars on show to stock a fin-de-siecle gentlemen's club. As might be expected, the gourmet Russian cuisine is top notch but with a price to match and, judging by our stomach-rumbling case, can take a while to reach you. All in all, though, if you've got cash to splash and people to impress then this is without doubt a frontrunner.