Heading south through narrow winding lanes, the abundance of fairytale thatched-roof cottages, large, ungainly storks, horses ploughing the fields and rosy-faced locals selling plump strawberries from the side of the road means you’ve really hit the heart of Kashubia. Half way to Wieżyca stop if you can at Złota Góra, easily recognisable by the large car park on the right as you climb a steepish hill. Here you’ll find a large concrete, communist-era monument dedicated to the secret military organisation Gryf Pomorski, founded in nearby Czarlino on Christmas Eve, 1939. Called ‘For Those Who Died for a Polish Pomerania’, the typically macho memorial remembers those Kashubians who gave their lives fighting the Germans in WWII. At 329m above sea level, Wieżyca, another 10km or so along the road, is the highest point in Kashubia. Keep heading south through the town as far as the road goes and turn right at the T-junction towards Kościerzyna. A couple of hundred metres on the right you’ll find the Kashubian Folk University (Kaszubski Uniwersytet Ludowy), a recommended place to stop, eat, see some great local art, and possibly spend the night.