A popular place for people to walk their dogs and dump their rubbish, this massive burial ground for many of the city’s pre-war Jewish elite speaks volumes about local attitudes towards their own history. Spread over eight hectares and looking like the victim of an earthquake, the cemetery operated between 1861 and the Second World War and is the final resting place of many fascinating souls, among them the singer Danielius Dolskis (1891-1931) and several Litvak soldiers who gave their lives fighting for Lithuanian independence a century or so ago. Efforts to address and fix the former cemetery’s many problems are being made by a small handful of concerned individuals and organisations, but progress is slow.