800 metres above sea level, across the river and over the mountain ridge south of Këlcyra, tiny Malëshova offers a carefree rural experience with walks around the village and mountainsides to canyons, caves, old bridges and high pastures. In winter skiing is possible too - though without lift facilities. The views across Gjirokastra's wild 'hidden valley' of Zagoria are beautiful - but be prepared if you intend to drive along the rough road down this side of the mountain.