Slavyansky is an enigma: a traditional Russian restaurant with excellent food and a great location at the back of the Trading Arcades (the building in which it is housed is called the Red Trading Rows behind the Susanin statue), yet featuring Moscow prices and horrendously slow service. Featuring Russian and Ukrainian menus and a number of Old Russian dishes, the food did not disappoint. The sliced pork rolls stuffed with bacon and mushrooms were juicy and the salad with roast beef, marinated vegetables and berries was light and fresh, a new spin on an old favourite. Likewise the baked pike-perch served with potato pancakes was delicious. Yet, we waited over an hour for our first dish to arrive and the excuse given was that it was very busy. While it was not empty it was hardly full. It’s a decision that sometimes a diner has to make: what is more important, service or cuisine? Unfortunately, you cannot get both here.