There's nothing like a great British boozer, as many Moscow imitations have found to their cost. Chelsea is among the latest to attempt to translate the concept, and like most of its rivals it manages both hits and misses. A big thumbs up for the bar that greets new arrivals - dark, intimate and unpretentious, it feels like a place where fast friendships can be struck over a pint. But the ambience of the main dining room, with its pictures of Maggie Thatcher and the Queen Mum, somehow vaults beyond the gastropub target and lands somewhere uncomfortably close to a tea room, albeit with big screen sport on offer. Book a table.