All over what was once Yugoslavia are monolithic monuments paying tribute to the men and women who defeated fascism and made the Yugoslav state a reality. Some are well-kept in the post-YU era, while others have well and truly been neglected by their new surroundings. Mostar’s Partisan Memorial Cemetery unfortunately sits in the latter group, although it doesn’t take a huge amount of imagination to see how immense this once was. The work of Bogdan Bogdanović, there are many myths about the memorial’s design but there were no doubts over its beauty. Built in 1965, this remains a poignant reminder of the politics of history. Best not to visit it at night though, it might be a bit shirty.