A delightful courtyard only tells part of the story. Dvorište is another marvellous cafe in a city full of the things, and its cosy interior is ideal for long afternoons spent putting the world to rights. Coffee, tea, rakija, beer and the rest, its all here, alongside a charming atmosphere and some truly adorable furniture. The courtyard really does deserve a second mention, a serene space accentuated by twinkling lights and a sense of calm that is somewhat at odds with the chaos of southern Serbia.