A longtime favourite of ours, Barhana is a Baščaršija institution for the modern age. With a charming location down a small cobbled alley (is there any other kind of alley here?), this restaurant and bar is as good a place for lunch as it is a boozy evening, with contemporary European fare sidling up to a rakija list that takes some beating. The outdoor furniture is plenty comfortable, so feel free to settle in for the long haul. It gets pretty busy though, so don’t assume you’ll find somewhere to sit once the sun goes down.