When the besieged Bosnians were building this desperate tunnel in 1993, the thought of it eventually becoming a tourist attraction would have seemed ludicrous. For years, this was the only way in or out of Sarajevo, a life-saver for a populace facing destruction. Today it is a museum and a reminder in one, with a small stretch of the tunnel still open for visitors. To visit, you need to get to Ilidža first. Public transport isn’t easy, so best to get a taxi or join a tour.