It might be small, but it's definitely sincere – few museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport, providing a life and supply line through which passed the aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes.

Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim, dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may have felt.

The museum proper is inside one of the two houses which provided the entry/exit points. In addition to wartime memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege and the tunnel’s construction and operation. Usually the video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way through this dirt and timber lifesaver.  Moving, memorable, not to be missed.