Thethi is the stuff of traveller legend, Albania's Shangri-La, a stone village in a stunningly beautiful alpine valley fringed by forest, enclosed on three sides by sheer rock walls and entered over a 1750-metre pass. Just 70km yet a world away from Shkodra, this enticing spot is great for a few days of hikes, good food and relaxation. Like any good paradise, it's also hard to reach, and until recently the village was isolated for months every winter due to four-metre deep snow drifts. Newly asphalted in 2022, the road is open to all vehicles year-round, though you should still count on a 3-4 hour drive, with snow chains recommended in winter.
Two minibuses per day connect Shkodra to Thethi, picking up from Shkodra hotels at 07:30 and 14:00, returning at 09:00 and 11:00; tickets are €10 and can be reserved via the guesthouses or the Nord Albania travel agency (www.nordalbania.al, tel. +355 68 200 33 93).