Set in a 17th century stone house, this tourist favourite is part museum and part hotel-restaurant, with the initials referring to Geg & Tosk, the two Albanian dialects. In the large dining hall, meat and fish are grilled on a massive wood-fire hearth, with diners looking on from the balconies. And the food is good: local and regional mountain dishes, Albanian tave oven specialities, cheese and plenty of fish options, all washed down with potent raki and often accompanied by live music. In summer, there's also a quiet garden terrace. The owner is an avid collector of antiques and traditional costumes, so make sure to view his priceless collection, which includes xhubleta, heavy black wool ceremonial dresses that are different for unmarried and married women.