The family-run Villa Vodno can be found hugging the bottom of the city’s most popular mountain in a quiet and exclusive suburb. Small, intimate and hugely popular with returning guests, you have to mind your head in the upstairs rooms, although once you’re used to this minor distraction you’ll find nothing to worry you at all. Featuring all the comfort associated with four-star hotel accommodation, the restaurant, which spreads out into the lovely secluded garden during the summer, serves a great range of Balkan specialities.