Back when backpacking around Russia meant living with babushkas or sleeping in grubby student dorms, this was the kind of place we dreamed of. Free breakfast in a cosy yet modern kitchen, free internet, free phone calls, free laundry, pancake parties at the weekends and freshly decorated bright rooms. The staff at this young and friendly place know travellers so well that they even have the insight to lend them old-school cameras and take them round the city on retro bicycles to shop in flea markets. The stream of creative ideas goes on and on - it's quite simply awesome.