ramshackle buildings, family homes for generations, often with semi-hidden courtyards and wooden balconies of faded elegance. SkadaVeli is in one of these charming houses. Staying here is like becoming part of the heart of the community. Through an old door marked with peeling paint, up a flight of drunken wooden stairs is a delight. There are only four rooms, though all are beautifully appointed, with modern yet subtle and elegant wood furniture. Renovation has been very sympathetic and only applied where necessary: the character and history has not been tainted. The wide balcony of bare-planked wood remains untouched and bears its marks of age with dignity. This is our favourite guesthouse in Tbilisi. In fact, it is our favourite place to stay.