Alongside the usual fruit, vegetables, fish and meat, the myriad stalls and kiosks that together make up the city’s main fresh produce market sell countless varieties of olives, cheese, pickled green tomatoes, fresh figs, wine and raki, all of it in a ramshackle collection of small squares and snaking alleyways. Animal-rights activists won't like the sight of live chickens slung over bicycle handlebars, but at least they didn't grow up in Guantanamo-style poultry farms. Early morning is the best time of day to witness (and participate) in this classic example of Balkan-style trading and haggling. Note that at the time of going to press, part of the market was undergoing something of a transformation with the construction of a brand-new building to accommodate some of the stalls.