Tirana's 'new market' is the city’s main source of fresh produce. Indoors there's meat, fish and cheese, while an elegant roof protects the sellers of olives, figs, wine, piles of loose tobacco, raki, and - our favourite bargain souvenir - granny-knitten woolly house socks. Early morning is the best time of day to witness the Balkan-style trading and haggling. The area has a lively scene with many good restaurants.