The Tvrdoš Monastery is a must-visit even if you aren’t a fan of the finest drink, but wine lovers have extra reason to make the 8km trip outside of Trebinje. The wines are great but it is the cellars that really intrigue, underground complexes that kept the tradition of Serbian winemaking alive in the wake of the collapse of medieval Serbia. The monastery has two cellars today so be sure to get in touch and organise a visit. There is a lot more to it than wine though, there’s that whole monastery thing. Built on the foundations of a 4th century church on the banks of the Trebišnjica, the monastery has seen every ebb and flow of Herzegovinian history since, the good, the bad and the ugly. The monastery remains a living, breathing house of worship, so dress respectably and don’t even think about bringing your dog in.