An ancient castle and a significant archaeological site, the Kalaja e Dalmacës or Dalmacia Castle on a mountaintop just east of Koman village was rediscovered around 1900 and has been sharing secrets about its role as the mediaeval centre of Albanian civilization ever since. Even in the so-called dark ages, the stone constructions, churches, metal objects, coins and elaborate funeral rituals point to an unexpected level of economic development in the western Balkans. The oldest part of the castle, dating back 1500 years, only survives as a series of low walls, but the lower area from later ages still has large sections of masonry. As always, the views make up for the hike to the top.