In a spick-and-span house where you can sit upstairs or down, or outside during the summer, the waitresses will bring you fabulous chachapuri—we loved the boat-shaped version with yolk and cheese—and sets of shashlik skewers of meat to share. The aubergine rolls with walnut tapenade are sublime, as is the sumptuous chashushuli stew. Wines include kvevri vintages that have aged in huge earthenware pots, just as they have for centuries. End with a glass of chacha grappa.