The superb menu changes frequently and boasts a wide selection of both meat and fish, often with a local twist, whilst elitist treats such as a creamy lobster thermidor underline the fact that it likes to pull out all the stops to be the best. The dining room is smart but never stuffy, whilst the wine list is a sensation. A meal here costs a small fortune, but you'll leave feeling you've had value for money. The name derives from the fact that for most of the Soviet period this was the main telegraph office in the city.