Tirana's most lovely sight is this gorgeous little mosque, built between 1790s to the 1820s by Molla Bey and his son, Haxhi Et’hem Bey. Closed under Communist rule, some 10,000 courageous people dared to attend prayers in January 1991, and remarkably the police did nothing to intervene, an event now hailed as a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. Have a look at the colourful frescoes outside and in the portico which depict trees, waterfalls and bridges - motifs rarely seen in Islamic art. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times; dress appropriately and remove your shoes before entering.