Berat's highlight is the inhabited medieval citadel, reached on a steep and slippery road from the lower town. Rather than exhausting yourself on a warm day, drive or take a taxi up via the rear along Rruga Muzak Topia. After viewing the massive main gate, visit the amazing Onufri Museum and the three small medieval Orthodox chapels with frescoes and icons just beyond. Walk by the red-brick 14th-century Holy Trinity church up to the inner castle for 360-degree views and a peek into the cavernous cisterns. Finally, walk by the ruins of the 15th-century Red Mosque to the southern bastion tower, with dizzying views straight down to the Mangalemi and Gorica districts.