As you might expect from a spectacular island in this particular location, maintaining control of the land has always been a big deal on Hvar. For centuries, that meant building fortresses and keeping watch over the seas. And while little remains of the Galešnik fortress today, you don’t need to be a scholar to get a feel for its value and influence. The ruins sit in the hills above Jelsa, a reminder that while armies come and go, time remains forever undefeated. Even during its heyday (historians still quibble about its age), Galešnik wasn’t accessible from all sides, but a relatively well-maintained hiking trail leads to the fort from Jelsa today. The walk takes about 45 minutes to an hour but does get rather steep at times. As such, the views are delightful.