Vrbanj’s population flirts with 500, making it a metropolis in local terms, but don’t expect the chaos of a Tokyo crossing here. Equidistant between Stari Grad and Jelsa, Vrbanj is another portal to total serenity, complete with wineries, stunning views, and a gorgeous old church. This is the very heart of Hvar, an understandably strategic point that remains a desirable address in the 21st century. It is also the birthplace of 16th-century revolutionary Matija Ivanić, who led the unsuccessful but vital Hvar Rebellion against the ruling Venetian Republic.