Lodz

All Saints' Day in Łódź

03 Oct 2019
If you hail from the decadent west then October 31st is generally seen as a time to fit into a scary outfit before getting trollied on punch and waking up next to some right old witch. The tradition of Halloween is fast catching on in Poland – and you’ll find numerous parties scheduled for the usual expat haunts. Readers expecting a wild time of costume parties and rollicking Halloween debauchery may be shocked however to discover a rather sobering, sombre scene during the evenings of November 1 and 2. Known nationally as All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich Świętych) and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny, or Dzień Wszystkich Zmarłych) respectively, these two days of the calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves.

Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this tradition actually has pagan roots. After All Saints’ Day was established as a holy day of obligation in 835, Saint Odilon had the bright idea in 998 of designating November 2nd as All Souls’ Day to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of ‘Dziady’. During Dziady (literally, ‘Forefathers’), the living would prepare an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed, believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife and return to their families. Places were set at the table for the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would bring on bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find an unloved grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.]

This is one of Poland’s most important public holidays, and only transport and emergency service staff are expected to work on November 1st (which falls on a Friday in 2019) – don’t be surprised to find your favourite hostelry bolted shut for the night. Whole families descend on graveyards to lay wreaths and light candles for deceased family members, and prayers said at the gravestone are meant to help the souls of the dead. A Catholic tradition across many Eastern European countries, the Polish take it particularly seriously and even the graves of the unknown or forgotten are cleaned up and littered with candles. While you may not think lurking around a cemetery in the dark is the best way to spend an evening, it’s incredibly beautiful to see the cemeteries lit up by candles all night long, so wrap up warm and go have a look. While we could wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it for yourself. Remember to take a candle along with you.

Below are Łódź's most centrally-located cemeteries.

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