Albania’s Malësi e Madhe or ‘Great Highlands’ district at the northern tip of the country is an outstanding tourist destination. The landscapes vary from the placid shores of Lake Shkodra to the wild alpine scenery of the so-called Accursed Mountains raising well over 2000 metres near the Montenegrin border, with plenty of authentically local accommodation and eating opportunities in the villages scattered around the valleys. With a population of just 35,000, most of them based in the functional main town of Koplik by the lake, there’s a great feeling of space and isolation once you venture up into the hills. Best of all, despite the rugged landscape, distances are relatively short and the good new roads allow for maximum driving pleasure. 
In the northernmost Kelmend valley the beautiful road to the villages of Tamara, Lëpusha and Vermosh crosses two high watershed passes, deep canyons and beech forest. The wide glacial valley along the Përroi i Thatë river rises up from near Reç and Razëm villages to Boga, magnificently situated between high peaks. Visitors should realise that even if it’s hot at sea level, night temperatures in the higher villages can drop to below 10 degrees at night. Shops are scarce, so stock up on essential supplies in Shkodra or Koplik before setting off. In the summer season, these destinations are popular and reservations at restaurants and guesthouses are recommended, and it’s perhaps with avoiding the weekends.

This travel guide is one of five regional In Your Pocket guides produced in cooperation with the Albanian Ministry of Tourism and Environment (Ministria e Turizmit dhe Mjedisit, www.turizmi.gov.al). Copies of the guide are free and can be found at local municipalities, accommodations and tourist information centres, as well as at Tirana’s airport and embassies.
There are three guides for destinations in north Albania: Shkodra, Theth & Velipoja; Malësia e Madhe; and Puka, Vau i Dejës & Fushë-Arrëz. In southern Albania, two guides cover Gjirokastra and the Vjosa River Valley around Tepelene and Përmet. In Your Pocket also has a guide for Tirana.