The entry to the Kelmend region at Albania's northernmost tip can't be more dramatic. After climbing steadily up from the lake shore at Hani i Hotit, you cross a pass and the suddenly you're face to face with a dramatic drop where the road serpentines to the bottom of the valley in tight hairpins. In the first bend, the Leqet e Hotit viewpoint has a panoramic glass balcony sticking out, a good spot for taking photos of the mountains crowding the horizon. Down in the valley, the road follows the Cem river canyon, where farmers use makeshift cable systems to reach their small fields on the other side, before arriving at Tamara, 65km from Shkodra.
Tamara is the main village of the traditionally Catholic Kelmend region, stretched along the wild river Cem in with imposing mountain peaks all around. The alpine-style village centre has recently been pedestrianised and renovated, making it a very pleasant place to stop over for a look at the views and a meal at one of the traditional restaurants. It's a good base for hikes in the wild surroundings, too, for example to the 300-metre deep Malqe Grada cave. The village's feminine name is said to have come from the 18th-century Tamara bridge, which in turn was named after the wife of the Vizier of Shkodra - take one glance at the roaring Cem river in the springtime rafting season, and you'll understand why bridges were so important in this region. A steep side road from Tamara leads to the remote hamlets of Vukel and Nikç, 500m above sea level, where abundant water sources allowing for irrigation of the fields.