Where to begin with Blagaj? This is the sort of spot that gets words like ‘miraculous’ thrown at it, so you know you’re onto something special. This famous old town sits less than 20 minutes south of Mostar, a short drive or bus away, and what awaits is an integral part of Bosniak culture that is a must for anyone with even the vaguest interest in the country. The Tekija is the main event, a sort-of-monastery-but-actually-a-house-of-education, hidden at the foot of a cliff that just happens to give birth to a river. You’ve probably seen photos of it. Those snaps don’t do it justice though, so get yourself here and prepare to be changed. The restaurant opposite the Tekija does a magnificent mixed grill too, if you’re hungry. The Blagaj Fortress sits on top of the town, for all you history buffs.