Named after its important position as the frontier spot for Spain’s 13th-century scuffles with the Moors, Arcos de la Frontera sits high above the land with all the grace and regality of a long-lost leader, a benevolent hero that the people still pray to each and every night. That might all seem a little dramatic, but one glance at this whitewashed wonder will make you feel things you didn’t know you could feel.

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA

is found 86km to the south of Seville and, as with most places, is best accessed using private transport. The journey takes almost an hour and a half via the AP-4. If you’re resigned to using public transport, there are two direct buses at 11:45 and 18:00, neither of which are particularly convenient for a day trip. Alternatively, jump on the train to Jerez and then get on a bus to Arcos. It is a long and frustrating journey, but worth every kilometre.

ARCOS HAS AN ABUNDANCE

of sights and sounds that will enchant even the most cynical of visitors, but the whitewashed splendour of its centre will take pride of place at the head of the table. The town’s castle is one of the most impressive in the country and has predictably found its way onto Spain’s list of Properties of Cultural Interest. The Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción is a 15th century church built on the remains of an old mosque, and if you close your eyes tight enough it might just transport you back to the heady days of post-Islamic Andalusia. There are plenty of other interesting churches, along with a myriad of cultural spots. But those white houses, oh yes indeed.

THERE AREN’T A HUGE