The rather over-the-top folksy atmosphere in no way impinges on what’s one of the best places to eat peasant food in the city. Set out on two floors, the real magic here can be found inside the kitchen. Choosing what to eat can be difficult as it’s a big menu and it’s all good. Recommended are either of the two offerings of borsch, the varenki and the potato pancakes. There’s several vodkas to help it all down too, and a rather marvellous photograph of happy factory workers just on the right as you enter. Highly recommended, especially for those eating in groups. In a word, magnificent.