When we think of capital cities, we tend to think of the same kinds of things: towering, glossy skyscrapers and well-coiffed residents in stylish clothing. Or government buildings (naturally) and a palace or two. Maybe, if you're a foodie, you'll think of three-star restaurants with sizzling steaks and long reservation times. But rarely do we equate capital cities with nature: greenery, quiet parks, dense forests and sprawling beaches.
And that's one of the things that makes Warsaw so incredible. It has all the standard stuff from sights to skyscrapers to incredible food options (see, well, the whole rest of the guide for all of those recommendations).
But it's also rife with greenery, nature and largely untouched spots that feel like oases in the middle of a major European capital. And as we come up to the end of a beautiful city summer, it's worth stepping away from the built Warsaw and exploring the natural Warsaw: the one with places to lounge in the grass or on the sand, to explore the trees of a lush forest, or to simply stroll in the quiet of nature.
Explore Natural Walking Paths
The easiest way to start a journey of Warsaw's green side, is to explore its nature paths. There are a few that run through the city and offer incredible opportunities to walk or bike for hours through the trees (while never actually leaving Warsaw).The best trails are on the east side of the river -- across the Poniatowski Bridge (p.??). This well-trafficked bridge runs from Saska Kępa on the east side of the river, to the center of town on the west. But if you start on the east side and walk below the bridge, you'll run into a walking and biking trail that runs north to south. Plus, don't miss the chance to rent a bike from a city bike stand (Vetrulio) on Wybrzeże Szczecińskie street (p.??)
Now you have to pick your poison! North or south?
Do you want to go north? Then head along the dirt trail, which winds through tons of trees and runs along the beach of the Vistula River, with gorgeous views of the center and the Old Town (p.??) along the way. Also along the way, find a lot of little cut-offs -- footpaths that will take you down to green spots, riverbanks and sandy beaches where you can post up with a picnic. If you keep moving, you'll reach the pedestrian and bicycle footbridge (p.??) which takes you across the river, into Powiśle (p.??). The bridge, new and very popular, is a great choice for first-time visitors to Warsaw, as it gives you plenty of photo ops and lots of spots to rest.
Do you want to go south? Get prepared for a quieter, less-trafficked ride, with lots and lots of greenery. There are fewer sights to see across the river, but you feel like you're in the countryside as you take this route, with lots of green grass and plenty of trees for shade. As with the north route, you can pop off the bike trail in tons of place here and have a picnic on the water. These are some of the quieter areas of the city for those who want a break from the major metropolitan center
Stroll in the Parks
One of the best parts of Warsaw's nature scene is its parks. The city has tons of parks, from sprawling parks with tons of amenities and buildings and water features, to small ones that take just a few minutes to get through
Of course, the biggest and most famous is Łazienki Park which has tons of sights, including museums and a palace, live theater, and even canals and ponds filled with wildlife. But, we've already devoted a whole section of our guide to Łazienki (seriously, that's how great it is), so we urge you to go check out p.?? for more. Here, we'd like to give some recognition to the unsung heroes of Warsaw's park scene. Well, maybe not unsung by local standards (locals are well-acquainted with all these spaces), but not as well known by tourists. Let's change that!
One spot that park lovers need to check out is Pole Mokotowskie (p.??). This sprawling park is rife with winding paths, ponds, wildlife, fields, and just tons to see. It recently underwent a renovation (that cost over 40 million złoty!) which brought even more greenery to the already beautiful space. The main pond was naturalized, new benches and wooden paths were brought in, more lighting was introduced, and even skating areas and outdoor gyms were created!
This spot is one of the best in the entire city because of just how stunning it is. We recommend starting off Żwirki I Wigury (p.??) (for travellers, you may know this as the route from the airport into town) and heading straight into the park, using the walking path of Ryszard Kapuściński. Bike or walk past volleyball courts, ponds, fields and trees as you traverse this gorgeous space. It's worth grabbing some sandwiches and a blanket, exploring the park on foot or bike, and finding a place to post up for a few hours. It's like a giant oasis in the heart of a bustling city.
And, for those of you who would prefer some actual, non-grass seating, there are plenty of stops in and around the park to get a drink or some food as you head on your way. Lolek Grill and Bar is located close to one of the park's ponds, and Bolek Pub and Restaurant is on the other side. Treat yourself to a day of biking and walking in this park, and top it off with a beer and a bite at one of their restaurants.
Another beloved park is Skaryszewski Park in Saska Kępa (p.??). Originally founded in 1905, Skaryszewski Park went under the name Paderewski Park up until 1945. Within its manicured grounds are several points of interest, including a monument commemorating Allied pilots who flew missions to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. The memorial is located at the exact site where B24 bomber was shot down in 1944, killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor, Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today it is the sight of the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II; he passed away at age 93 in March 2016.
Even without its fascinating history, Skaryszewski Park has tons to offer. It's known as a place to relax, picnic, feed birds and take dogs for a walk. With large bushes and overhanging tress, two duck ponds, and secret paths aplenty, it's a more wild and laid-back alternative to its well-manicured sister, Łazienki Park. This one comes with a little more of a wild feeling -- and you'll find tons of young people hanging out with picnics, bottles of wine, sandwiches and their dogs in this park. It's the epitome of a casual oasis in Praga.
Another is Szczęśliwicki Park - Found in the heart of the Ochota district, it's a wonder that there's a park here at all as the park was built in the 1960s on a site that previously held the city's refuse and rubble from World War 2! Today, however, this public area is a great place for rest and recreational activities. The park itself contains attractions such as a beach volleyball court and an outdoor gym, however, the star attractions are outdoor pools for kids and adults and CNS Szczęśliwice winter ski center, which was built in the 1980s and revamped in 2019. The man-made hill is Warsaw's highest point at 152m. The center is also open in summer for those wishing to get to the top of the hill to get some views of the city.
Lounge on the Beaches
With the Vistula River running right through Warsaw, it's entirely unsurprising that we have tons of beaches. But it might be surprising to see just how nice these beaches are. Expell that idea of river beaches with dirt and broken glass -- these are lovely, sand-filled and regularly cleaned.... though you still might want to wear shoes. We can't guarantee that there isn't broken glass.
The first one doesn't really count as a beach in the traditional sense, but we'd be remiss if we didn't mention it: Vistula Boulevards. These boulevards, running along the west side of the river, are chock-full of little stands selling drinks and food in the summers, as well as barges also selling drinks and food and playing music all night long on weekend nights. You'll find all the young, hip locals here, sitting on the steps of the boulevards, drinking beer or wine, smoking cigarettes, chatting and having fun. Okay, so it's not really the epitome of nature in Warsaw, but it is a must-see. And, as you're lounging on those steps, look across the water to find....
Poniatówka Beach! Located just across the river from the Vistula Boulevards, this beach which runs underneath the Poniatowski Bridge). This is actually a very nature-heavy spot with tons of walking paths (see above - this is where the walking paths start), reeds, tall grasses and even green spaces to stretch out. the sprawling sand beach was revived in 2010, and features aplenty of sunbeds, hammocks and designated areas for starting up a good ole BBQ. On summer nights, you'll find tons of people have set up little bonfires on the north and south sides of the bridge. Water equipment rental is right on the beach, there's volleyball courts, a playground for kids and a cafe/bar.
Another must-see is Praga District Beach - Known as the Rusałka Beach, Praga district beach, the Zoo beach, or even 'the beach at La Playa' thanks to the fun bar/club/activity area behind (p.??), this beach has one of the best views in Warsaw - directly across the river is the Old Town - a view not to be missed during the day, or for that matter, at night! This is more of a wild beach, so bring your own gear, however, with La Playa just behind you, it's a great place to either chill out or join the party just a stone's throw away. The beach is also where you can get the Vistulan Tourist Ferry Service (during the summer season) to cross the river to get back to the Vistulan Boulevards and the Old Town.
Further north and back on the east side of the river, you'll find Żoliborz Beach. Located very near the Warsaw Citadel, Żoliborz Beach is towards the end of the northern section of the Vistula Boulevards. Handily, there is a Veturilo city bike station here should you choose to ride here rather than walk or take the bus. As for the beach itself, there is a children's playground, designated barbecue area, deck chairs, wicker chairs, a canoe harbour and toilets (phew!).
Step a little out of the city for Zegrze Reservoir. This large body of water, linking 3 nearby rivers - the Vistula, Narew and Wkra - is the summer playground of Varsovians and those living nearby, who wish to get away from the city and enjoy the beaches, bars and water sports. And no wonder, as it's only 20km north-east of Warsaw.
It can be packed on major weekends or when the weather gets really nice, but don't let that deter you! There is plenty of space here and this lovely spot offers a lot in the way of quiet reflection. From spring to autumn the lake is full of yachts and other vessels, but come winter, the reservoir traffic turns to ice-skating (if you feel brave enough!).
However, if being on a crowded beach is not your thing, the surrounding area has plenty of quiet tourist trails to enjoy. There are tons of piers all around the reservoir and plenty of chances to rent motor boats with a guide and fishing boats also with a guide. Lots of companies (LSurf and Water Club are just two) offer kayak rentals and even waterbike rentals, and some hotels in the area also offer the same!
Getting there can be done easily and in a cool way! Use the ‘Zefir’ ferry at 09:00 from the Żeran Canal near bus stop Cementownia 02. A one way journey costs 36zł normal fare, and 18zł reduced. The ferry will take you to the northern part of the reservoir to the town of Serock where you have two hours before the return journey to wander around. Talk about spending the whole day on the water!
Warsaw is rife with many attractions but we highly recommend taking just one or two days to explore the greener aspects of this beautiful city. Take a break from the crowds and really embrace the feeling that you're in the middle of nature.... in the middle of the city.
Comments