Warsaw

Mirów, Muranów and more

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The Polin Museum


All visitors are aware of the glories of the Old Town, and even Praga gets its fair share of curious foreign visitors. But what of the area northwest of the centre? The area formed by the districts of Mirów and Muranów (and technically also Nowolipki) contains a good scattering of gems, not least of all one of Poland's most impressive and challenging museums - the striking POLIN Museum, which traces the history of Polish Jews. There are also numerous curious historical architectural marvels in these districts like the socialist realist housing estates that were built on the rubble of the jewish ghetto. Designed by Bohdan Lachert the estates sprang up between 1948 and 1956, constructed using smashed rubble that was hastily glued together – if you notice any cracks in the walls, that’s the reason. Any broken bricks deemed too unsuitable for this purpose were simply left heaped together, hence the preponderance of overgrown artificial rises. The crowning piece of the residential development was and is Kino Muranów, in business since 1951.

Situated on the corner of al. Solidarnorsci and ul. Gen. Andersa it’s known for its edgy program, so much so that it won the Europa Cinema Prize for best repertoire in 2003. Perhaps the most startling contrast between the old and the new in this fascinating part of the city can be illustrated by the retail opportunities on offer. On the one hand you have the Arkadia Shopping Mall to the very north, lauded by some as the best in Poland, while on the other you have Hala Mirowska, which functioned as Warsaw's largest indoor and outdoor market until 1944 and can be found fully restored to its former glory on the corner of Jana Pawla and Elektoralna. Today it is notable for the bank of flower stalls outside, as well as the lines of local bumpkins selling jars of mushrooms out of the back of vans. Essential Warsaw.
 
The glossy skyline of Wola


While we're on the subject of the "other" neighborhoods of Warsaw, it should be said that there are plenty of fascinating and cool neighborhoods all over the city. The ones most tourists know (all listed under "districts" on our website) get plenty of love. But here's a quick rundown of some of the other less-trafficked, but still interesting, districts:

Ochota: Located to the southwest of the center, Ochota is a bustling, middle class neighborhood of Warsaw with plenty to offer in the way of shopping (check out Blue City mall) and activities. Szczesliwicki Park is another favorite here, with little rolling hills that offer skiing opportunities in the winter! Plus Górka Szczęśliwicka, an easy going amusement park that's perfect for families. 

Żoliborz: Located just to the north of the Old Town, Żoliborz (often referred to as "leafy Żoliborz") has a lot of low-rise buildings and tons of green spaces, as well as trees all over the place. It's a more upscale neighborhood with attractions like the Polish Army Museum and lots of airBNBs and hotels -- all conveniently located within a quick walk of the old town. 

Wola: We've already covered some of Wola above (Mirów is part of the larger Wola district) but this neighborhood deserves a little more attention. It's commonly known as the "business district" because of its tall, glossy skyscrapers and men and women walking briskly around in well-tailored suits. There are plenty of hotels out here as well as little eateries and bars. 

That pretty much covers the bulk of Warsaw's neighborhoods. Of course, the further you go from the center, the more you'll find (the full list of Warsaw districts includes Białołęcka, Bielany, Bemowo, Ursus, Włochy, Ursynów, Wawer, Wesoła, Rembertów, and Targówek) but most of the other districts are primarily residential. To make the most of your time, we suggest finding some interesting places on our list and letting your feet (and maybe, if you're a foodie, your nose) guide the way! 

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