Beyond the Guidebook: Living Split

The best way to understand a city isn’t just by ticking off landmarks, but by stepping into the rhythm of everyday life. In Split, culture reveals itself through conversations, shared moments and small, often unexpected glimpses into local routines.

By slowing down, exploring beyond the obvious and connecting with people and places, you begin to experience Split not just as a destination, but as a way of life.

Here are a few ways to do exactly that.

Meštrović – A Coastal Gem for Art and Architecture Enthusiasts

Start with the Meštrović Gallery, located on the slopes of Marjan, the green heart of the city, where art meets sweeping Adriatic views. Just steps from the sea, you’ll also find Meštrović’s Crikvine – Kaštilac, a serene exhibition space where the artist once presented a powerful cycle of reliefs depicting the life of Christ.
Now newly reopened after renovation, the gallery hosts the exhibition “Meštrović’s House in Split – A Space of Life and Art” (open until October 9), offering a rare and intimate insight into the life and vision of Ivan Meštrović. Set within his striking seaside villa, the exhibition brings together sculpture, architecture, personal objects and multimedia, recreating the atmosphere of his home and creative world.
Don’t miss: The dialogue between indoor sculptures and the surrounding Mediterranean landscape.
Insider tip: Take time to explore the garden – it’s an essential part of the experience, not just a backdrop.

Game of Thrones - Where Fantasy Meets Fierce History

You’ve seen it on screen as Meereen or the streets of Braavos, but Split’s 'Game of Thrones' locations are far more epic in reality.
The Dragon’s Dungeon: Deep within the 1,700 year old Diocletian’s Cellars, where Daenerys kept her dragons, you aren't just standing on a film set you’re walking through the world’s best-preserved Roman palace substructures.
The Fortress of Klis: Perched on a cliff above Split, this stronghold doubled as the city of Meereen. While you won't find dragons there today, you will find the site of legendary battles where 'Uskoks' (local guerrilla fighters) held off the Ottoman Empire for decades.
Inside Tip: Visit Klis at sunset. The view of Split and the Adriatic islands is the real 'Iron Throne' experience."

Unesco Intangible Heritage – Living Traditions

In Split, tradition is something you experience, not just observe.
Klapa singing, a UNESCO-listed a cappella tradition can often be heard spontaneously in the Vestibule or along the old town streets, filling the stone spaces with harmony.
Just a short drive inland, the Sinjska Alka takes every year in August, and this year it will be held from August 7 to 9., commemorating a historic 1715 victory over the Ottomans. This centuries-old equestrian competition sees riders (Alkari) galloping at full speed, aiming their lances at a small iron ring a powerful symbol of honour, skill and identity that has remained unchanged for over 300 years.
The Mediterranean diet, also UNESCO-protected, completes the picture not just through food, but through a culture of sharing, slowing down and enjoying the moment, Split is a perfect city for that.
Don’t miss: The final run of the Alka competition.
Insider tip: Arrive earl, the whole town fills up fast and the atmosphere builds throughout the day.

Split Summer Festival – Culture Under the Stars

From July 14 to August 14, the Split Summer Festival transforms historic locations into performance venues, with the Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace as its most iconic stage. Opera, ballet, theatre and concerts unfold under the stars, blending classical repertoire with a unique historical setting. Even outside official venues, the whole city feels like an open stage during this period, with music and rehearsals often spilling into streets and squares.
The programme opens with Verdi’s “Don Carlo” at the Peristyle, the festival’s central premiere. It continues with Verdi’s “Nabucco”, confirming the tradition of large-scale opera evenings in heritage spaces. Zajc’s “Nikola Šubić Zrinski” moves this year to a new open-air location on Marjan Hill, while Gotovac’s “Ero s onoga svijeta” is performed both in Split and in Vrlika, extending the festival beyond the city itself.
The ballet programme includes “Giselle”, alongside guest performances of “Hamlet”, staged in the atmospheric Diocletian’s Cellars, where the Roman underground becomes part of the stage setting.
Don’t miss: An opera performance at the Peristyle.
Insider tip: No ticket? Sit nearby, the sound carries beautifully through the square.

A must-experience: where music, technology, and imagination collide

This May, Toni Starešinić brings his visionary project Eksterminator ’81 to the iconic Hrvatski dom Split and it’s anything but a typical concert. Think of it as a deep dive into a living, breathing soundscape where analog soul meets digital futures.
On May 23, step into a performance that blurs the line between human instinct and machine precision. Rooted in contemporary jazz yet constantly pushing outward, Eksterminator ’81 fuses electronics, groove, and experimental textures into something fluid, immersive, and impossible to pin down.
Inspired by the visionary worlds of Enki Bilal, the concept explores transformation and hybrid existence a mind evolving beyond its limits, reflected in music that shifts between organic warmth and futuristic edge.
On stage, the trio moves as one: Toni Starešinić on keys and electronics, shaping the sonic architecture in real time; Janko Novoselić on drums, delivering raw, kinetic drive; and Andrej Jakuš on trumpet, cutting through with expressive, cinematic lines. Their long-standing musical connection creates a performance that is both tightly woven and wide open where improvisation doesn’t sit in the background, but becomes the main language.
Insider tip: the Eksterminator ’81 CD will be available at the concert a limited chance to take the experience home and revisit the sound in its pure, crafted form after the live performance fades.

Art – Contemporary & Creative Split

The Split Youth Centre is a vibrant hub for alternative culture, hosting exhibitions, performances and events that constantly reshape the city’s cultural pulse. For more established contemporary art, the Museum of Fine Arts Split offers a refined exhibition programme.
This season features several key exhibitions. At the Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Labyrinth of Time by Jansen Čapar runs until 19 June. The retrospective spans nearly five decades and blends Byzantine artistic heritage with European modernism through paintings, sculptures and experimental works exploring time and memory.
Meanwhile, the Old City Hall hosts Eternal Midday Sun by Stipe Nobilo, on view from late May to the end of July. The exhibition presents luminous Mediterranean landscapes inspired by Dalmatia’s intense summer light, marking both the artist’s 80th birthday and 50 years since his first solo exhibition.
Contemporary art lovers should also visit Brilliant Self-Portrait by Dalibor Martinis at Kula Gallery. The exhibition on view until 19 June, showcasing a striking light-and-sound installation that explores identity, technology and the transformation of the self.
As part of the Split School of Fine Arts, the School Gallery (Galerija Škola) at Fausta Vrančića 15 presents exhibitions that create a dialogue between art education and contemporary artistic practice.
Salon Galić on Marmontova Street continues to be an important point for contemporary Croatian art, while the historic Photo Club Split (founded in 1911) remains essential for photography lovers.
Don’t miss: Student exhibitions at Galerija Škola; raw, fresh and often surprising.
Insider tip: Check opening hours in advance, as many smaller galleries operate on limited schedules.

Film – Mediterranean Cinema Vibes

Cinema in Split often comes with a sea breeze and a sunset backdrop.
The Split Mediterranean Film Festival runs from June 11 to June 20, showcasing the best of Mediterranean cinema. Screenings take place at atmospheric venues across the city, many of them outdoors, creating a relaxed yet culturally rich experience. With guest appearances and premieres, it’s a great way to discover regional storytelling in a unique setting.
Don’t miss: An open-air screening under the stars.
Insider tip: Arrive early for the best seats, venues fill up quickly.

Music – From Mega Festivals to Soulful Nights

The biggest event is Ultra Europe Festival, taking place July 10–12 at Park Mladeži. This global electronic music powerhouse brings names like Calvin Harris, Martin Garrix, John Summit, FISHER and Dom Dolla, turning Split into one of Europe’s key summer festival destinations. Expect massive stages, late-night sets and an international crowd that keeps the city buzzing for days.
Beyond the festival scale, the local scene is equally strong. The Kamičak Festival returns for its 8th edition on 19 June at Tvrđava Kamičak in Sinj, celebrating World Music Day with a headline performance by Femi Kuti & The Positive Force. A leading figure of afrobeat, Femi Kuti brings an explosive live show driven by hypnotic rhythms, powerful brass and irresistible groove.
The same weekend, the Metno Festival takes place on 19 - 20 June at Spomenik na Glavici in Makarska, marking its 18th edition with a world music programme. Headliners include Dubioza Kolektiv and BCUC, bringing high-energy global sounds and powerful live performances.
Adding to the summer highlights, Gipsy Kings ft. Tonino Baliardo perform in Makarska at the iconic Spomenik revoluciji (Monument to the Revolution) on 04 July bringing their signature rumba flamenca sound to a spectacular open-air setting.
The Thrilj Blues Festival in Trilj, 24 - 25 July brings soulful performances led by artists such as Robert Finley, blending raw blues emotion with an intimate outdoor setting by the river. Meanwhile, across Dalmatia, summer evenings often feature jazz nights, acoustic sets and surprise pop-up concerts in historic squares and seaside venues.

The summer highlight arrives with the Vibrez Festival, where the iconic Slovene group Laibach performs on August 29 at the Meštrović Gallery. Known for merging music, visual art and performance, Laibach transforms concerts into powerful audiovisual experiences where concept, sound and imagery merge into a single artistic statement.
In the same venue, between August 26 and 30, audiences can also experience performances by Mogwai, Mariza, Mario Biondi and Morcheeba, adding a rich mix of post-rock, fado, soul and trip-hop to the seaside setting of Meštrović’s architectural masterpiece.
Classical music takes over the city centre from September 7 to 9, when the historic Diocletian's Palace Peristyle hosts concerts by Fazıl Say, Anouar Brahem, and artists from La Scala di Milano, including soprano Maria Grazia Schiavo and bass-baritone Mirco Ruggieri. The combination of Roman architecture and world-class performance creates one of the most atmospheric concert experiences in Europe
Don’t miss: A headline set at Ultra Europe, it’s a full sensory experience.
Insider tip: Mix big festival nights with smaller local gigs, that’s where you feel the real Dalmatian rhythm of summer.

Sensory – Dive In Like a Local

And finally, here is a rapid-fire bucket list: visit the fish market (peškaria), explore the green market (pazar), and enjoy the obligatory coffee on the Riva while watching the city wake up. Maybe catch a Hajduk home game or grab a beer at Matejuška as the sun sets over the harbour.
Take an evening walk along Bačvice or the waterfront and you’ll almost certainly stumble upon a game of picigin, a uniquely Split tradition played in shallow water with a small ball, full of laughter, acrobatic dives and pure local spirit. It’s less a sport, more a lifestyle.
More about picigin: picigin.org. More importantly, just join in, or at least stop and watch.
Don’t miss: A sunset picigin game at Bačvice, it’s pure Split energy.
Insider tip: The best walks happen without a plan, just follow the sea and the sound of the city.

Take with you – Authentic Souvenirs

Skip the generic and take home something truly local.
Split artist Tisja Kljaković Braić has a small studio on Čopova Street near Varoš, where her witty illustrations of Dalmatian life, especially relationships, have become iconic. A T-shirt, postcard or print from Tisja is a uniquely Split souvenir. Just note: it’s best to call ahead (+385 91 384 3144), as opening hours can vary.
At Jakšić Gallery (Bribirska 10), a family-run gallery presents handcrafted jewellery, art and sculptures made from Brač stone. It’s a great place to find elegant, locally made pieces with a strong Dalmatian identity.
Don’t miss: Jewellery or sculptures made from Brač stone.
Insider tip: Smaller studios don’t keep strict hours: always check before visiting.

Island Life – Festivals Beyond the Mainland

The Dalmatian islands bring their own summer rhythm.
On Brač, Graffiti na Gradele (July 22–26) combines street art, music and food, while Hvar hosts Tam Tam Festival (July 9–18) in Sućuraj and Mudri Brk (July 29 – August 1) in Jelsa.
Each event offers a more intimate, alternative festival experience, a perfect escape from the city crowds.
Don’t miss: A sunset concert on the islands.
Insider tip: Stay overnight, island life truly comes alive after dark.

Split