Tartu has a much-loved nickname, 'The City of Good Thoughts', and it really couldn't be more apt. With a population of roughly 97,000, this is Estonia's second largest city. But it's easily first in terms of brainpower (as home to the nation's foremost university), off-beat hangouts (thanks to all those wacky students) and a relaxed, historical vibe (it's the oldest city in the Baltics).
First-time visitors should turn to our Sightseeing section to find the most fascinating spots in Old Town, Toome Hill and beyond. If you're making a return visit, be sure to check out the amazing Estonian National Museum, which we've featured in the guide, and the up-and-coming hotspots in the Aparaaditehas.