From Burundi to Joburg with Chef Coco
Born in Burundi to Burundian, Yemeni, and Omani heritage and raised in Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of Congo, Chef Coco – as he’s affectionately known – spent his childhood at his mother’s side in her restaurant. It's an experience that instilled in him a deep understanding of the cultural power of food. He later received his formal culinary training at the prestigious École Hôtelière de Namur in Belgium.
Chef Coco first arrived in South Africa in 2000 on a six-month consulting job. After returning briefly to Belgium, he told his family they’d be moving to South Africa in three months – and he hasn’t looked back since. In 2001, he opened a tiny 25-seater café in Greenside called Ma Passion (“My Passion” in French), serving mostly French cuisine with early nods to the African dishes that would come to define his culinary voice. From there, he then moved on to Sel et Poivre in Morningside, followed by the acclaimed Epicure, each one a step further in his celebration of refined, pan-African cuisine.
As for Epicure, this isn't its first act. The restaurant originally opened its doors in March 2018 in Morningside – a plush 160-seater with a terrace and garden, where it quickly made a name for its elevated take on pan-African cuisine. Then came an unexpected plot twist: the Covid lockdown. Like many in Joburg’s dining scene, Chef Coco had to hit pause. But behind the scenes, he was quietly plotting a return, and after five years of waiting for the right time and the right space, Epicure is back. Now housed in the heart of Rosebank, it’s a new address with the same soul and a slightly different name – Épicure at ONE. Even some of the original furniture made the move, tying the past to this exciting new chapter.
Épicure at ONE returns with a pan-African punch
Photo: Johannesburg In Your Pocket.
With the return of Epicure, Chef Coco invites diners on a journey across the continent – or as he puts it, “At Epicure, we don’t say bon appétit, we say bon voyage.” It’s a fitting philosophy in a city like Joburg, which proudly claims its African identity, yet rarely showcases African cuisine in its trendiest culinary neighbourhoods. Épicure at ONE fills that gap with style and substance. “I feel at home in Johannesburg. I’ve never lived anywhere longer than this,” he told us.
A culinary journey through Africa: small plates and big flavours
Épicure at ONE's menu isn't divided into starters and mains, but rather “small plates” and “big plates” – a nod to how many African cultures experience food.
We kicked off in Central Africa, starting with a Kinshasa Kir (ginger beer and prosecco with a fiery dash of pili-pili) and an arancini made with cassava leaves and oxtail sauce – a tribute to his time in the Congo. From there, we travelled north with prawn kataifi (prawns wrapped in crispy shredded phyllo), paired with a Jasmine Mirage cocktail – a fragrant mix of jasmine tea, pomegranate molasses, and rose water, ingredients beloved in Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria.
Next stop: Southern Africa, with a familiar bite – Magwinya Mouthfuls, a local fried dough ball stuffed with peanut chicken and morogo (similar to spinach). This was served with the zingy Dangerous Lover cocktail, made with naartjie, Tequila Blanco, elderflower, and Aperol. A rich Lamb Dakhine stew, inspired by Mali and Senegal, transported us to West Africa with its creamy peanut sauce and hearty beans, served alongside broken rice. Chef Coco shared the significance of broken rice in the region – made up of grains fractured during milling or handling, it’s a widely consumed, affordable, and nutritious staple across much of Africa and beyond.
We then journeyed to East Africa for a sweet finale, Kilwa Coconut Cake paired with chai ice cream – a delicious fusion of African, South Asian, and European influences. The star of the pairing? The Kilimanjaro Queen cocktail. A bold blend of shredded coconut, whisky, pineapple, cumin, and lemonade, the cocktail closed the meal on a high note.
Elevated eats in Rosebank
Perched on the seventh floor of the sleek new One Rosebank building on 37 Cradock Avenue, Épicure at ONE offers sky-high dining with a view, quite literally. With indoor and outdoor seating (plus a private dining room for more exclusive affairs), this luxe spot is part of a bold new development rising just 400m from Oxford Parks and 1.4km from Rosebank Mall.
One Rosebank itself is all about modern city living, with a rooftop restaurant, leisure pools, and a residents’ gym. While the area is still under construction, Épicure at ONE’s balcony gives you a front-row seat to the future of Rosebank – and the panoramic views stretch far beyond the cranes and scaffolding. It’s a rare perspective you won’t get anywhere else in the city.
Visit Épicure at ONE: Menu, opening hours, and location
The curated tasting menu we experienced showcased one standout dish from each African region – but the full menu offering is also divided into regions, with even more small plates, platters, and sides designed for sharing. You can find the menu here. There are plans to open the restaurant for breakfast from August 2025, so early birds can get a taste of Africa too.
Open Mon – Sun from 11:00 – 22:00.
One Rosebank, 37 Cradock Avenue, Rosebank
Contact the restaurant on +27 82 577 4747, book online via email at info@epicurerestaurant.co.za or book via Dineplan here.
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