Zagreb

Leaving the Upper Town

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On the corner just west of there is the Museum of Broken Relationships. Here you will find a most unusual collection on display with mementos of relationships gone wrong. The project’s original purpose was to relieve people of the pseudo-psychic burden of objects loaded with emotional memories but, as the Museum travels the world’s metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender, and often funny testament to peoples’ eccentricities that serves to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.
Let’s leave Gornji Grad for now, via the Stone Gate or Kamenita vrata, an archway which was one of the four original entries into the walled section of feudal Zagreb which we are currently in. Next to here you will see K crnom orlu, the oldest pharmacy in Zagreb (1355) which is now a protected cultural landmark. In the 17th and 18th centuries this pharmacy was the local hangout much like a bar or café today. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. Whether this the case or not, a portrait of Mary was hanging in the gate at the time of the fire, and did survive, perhaps adding to the importance of the gate for the locals.

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