This cult upstairs 'journalists' club' on the corner of the market square was until recently one of Kraków's last holdouts where you could stagger in late, order a plate of pierogi and a beer, and chain-smoke mercilessly among your fellow diners. Following a paint job and a bit of re-branding, we were actually relieved to see that while the ashtrays are gone and the menu has gone upmarket modern Polish, the basic spirit of this place remains intact. The piano still stands in its place (live music most Saturdays from 18:00), the autographed portraits of actors and poets remain on the walls above the rickety art nouveau furnishings, and in them the loyal, aging clientele still lean over their dinner plates, notebooks and chess sets. Even the formal dining room retains its bright emerald colour. Despite the faded fin-de-siecle feel, the menu is now more elegant than the setting: enjoy delicious modern interpretations of Polish cuisine made from regional products and produce, a large selection of local beers, specially selected wines, views onto the market square, and a return to an age when people had more time for drinking, dining and intelligent discourse.