With this long, narrow location on the market square, the owners have taken an admittedly awkward space and turned it into a slick-seeming restaurant that skirts the line between elegance and imitation. While the red-tied waitstaff (who take your order with a little electronic gadget), the extensive menu and the food itself - a celebration of Italy's elaborate culinary culture - play their respective roles well enough, take a closer look at the interior and you begin to notice how the pale unfinished timber framing clashes with the wallpaper, how the black shag carpet exhibits the dirt it collects, and how the canopied ceiling hides cheap plastic roof sheeting; you'll have plenty of time, since the kitchen seems to work at a snail's pace. What you're meant to notice, of course, is the fashion runway entrance, the competence of the cuisine and the long cocktail list - the latter of which only serves to suggest that Virtuoso's glass-half-empty elegance would be better served strictly as a bar.