Zagreb

Starting from the belly

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Pushing on through Tkalčićeva and Opatovina you come to Dolac, the city’s main market. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible. Dolac exits to the east into Kaptol, the once-city of the Catholic Church. The first thing you will see there is the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja). A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it's heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It's reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Of course, if you’ve taken the time to visit the City Museum, you might have noticed a series of photos from the early decades of the previous century, and even then the Cathedral was being repaired!

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