Brooding above Zagreb, the Sljeme peak on Mount Medvednica is great for a day of snow-filled fun - or on the floodlit slope at night. The cable car is under construction, so the bus is at the end of tram line 15 (Dolje): take tram no. 8 or 14 to Mihaljevac, then change to no.15 - or take your car to the top. Despite the snow cannons, at weekends it's crowded and gets pretty icy, so take advantage of a good drop on weekdays if you can. You can hire equipment at the top.