Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria's old world antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls once played host to some of the city's most novel concerts, however these days it's more of a sleepy hang-out for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there's a queue).