Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in your hand, recounting the events of the night before, making half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft art projects you’ll never follow through with. In fact some people seem to have made a living out of such blissful idleness (they’re called 'ex-pats'). While all of Kraków may seem like a beer garden in the summer months, contrary to the evidence in front of you, it is not legal to drink in public spaces, whether it’s the Planty, the Wisła riverbank or elsewhere. Nor should you need to. With more bars per capita than any other city in Europe, suddenly every single one has a garden full of patio furniture the moment the sun comes out.
So which to choose? Most foreigners will keep to the market square, and while the views and vibe are super, you’ll find that every establishment on the market square only serves the most basic national beers, and they charge 50% more for them. Kraków's courtyards are more interesting and one of the best is Buddha Bar, where DJs spin records under the stars through a narrow passageway across from the Mickiewicz monument. Other Old Town notables include Bunkier - a positively huge terrace on the Planty, Klub Re, Viva La Pinta, and the popular nook known as 'Doubting Thomas Lane' (ul. Św. Tomasza).
Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking at its finest; Plac Nowy is a no-brainer, but tables can be hard to find - note that Le Scandale has plenty of space hidden in its courtyard. For two of the district's most atmospheric and evocative gardens head to MleczarniaorEszeweria. Also, don’t forget ul. Szeroka - far less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well, and it catches sun later into the evening.