Whatever the magic ingredient is for a successful restaurant, there's little doubt that Karakter has it. The slightly retro modern interior, full of soft lighting and framed paintings, evokes Miro and Leger, and possesses a seemingly effortless panache and undeniable appeal. The authorial menu is full of daring ingredients that contribute to complex and adventurous dishes that will either make you squirm or salivate. Alongside bull testicle pate, squid tentacles, ostrich gizzards and horse sweetbreads, you'll find tasty trout ceviche and beef ribs baked for eight hours and served in Guinness sauce. Demonstrating the confounding contrasts of the menu are the fresh mussels served eight different ways, and the most Polish and inedible-sounding (to us, anyway) menu item: sauerkraut and smoked pork lard soup. Though we find some of these inventions to be a bit too convoluted, foodies - especially those who have buttery-sweet tastes and enjoy a culinary dare - will no doubt be in heaven. Ideal for a date with wine, the casually dressed staff will assist you in selecting, but make sure you've made a reservation if you want a table in this buzzy, ambitious restaurant.